MARIWAN, Iran — Sufism, the often debated and mystical branch of Islam, is still practiced throughout Kurdistan including in Rojhelat, Kurdish areas of Iran.
Spirit men, known as dervishes, gather in the Kurdish town of Marivan. Together they practice Dhikr, devotional acts. They are on the Qadiri tariqa, the Sufi order.
Two famous Islamic theological movements, known as tariqa, are practiced in Iranian Kurdistan. The Qadiri tariqa got its name from its founder, Abdul Qadir Gilani (1077–1166).
"Our Baiat [pledge] and tariqa is Qadidiri Kasnazani, which goes back to Ali ibn Abi Talib and Prophet Mohammed, peace be up on him. This has come to Sheikh Abdul Qadir Gilani with the name of Baiat. During the time of Sheikh Abdul Qadir Gilani, he established a tariqa and a method," Haji Ibrahim Sheikh Sharbaty, a dervish, explained.
The chant ‘Hey Allah’ and daf drumming are familiar sounds. Sufi mosques can be found throughout Kurdistan, including the Kurdistan Region capital of Erbil.
"He [Gilani] devoted four teachers to the tariqa. Sheikh Karim Shah whose nickname is Kasnazani was born in the Kurdistan Region of Iraq," Sharbaty added. “We are the dervish of Sheikh Mohammed Kasnazani who is the current head of the Qadiri tariqa.
"He is a strong and powerful guide. Our roots are from him. It has been a tradition during the Shahi Kasnazani period to travel all the villages every winter.”
Every winter, the tariqa followers gather to form a group that is called a Dayara. A group of 40-50 dervishes travel through the villages for a month.
Residents of Sefi Zhuru, Allmana, and Mahmaya welcome the Sufis. They teach Islam and their tariqa to the villagers. Each day they move to a new village.
"Dhikr is the food of the soul. Since your body needs food and drink, it is the same that the soul needs dhikr. The dhikr rally is a garden of paradise. When you mention the name of the spiritual men, God’s mercy will come down," said dervish Haidar Khawi.
Dervishes usually gather at a mosque called a Takiya.
"Being a dervish is not for the sake of money and property. It is a divine crown from God placed on the head of those who deserve it," added Khawi.
The person who leads the ceremony is called the caliph. They chant religious slogans to praise Allah and the spirit men. There are 10 Takiyas in Mariwan.
Sufism has a long history in the Kurdistan Region. There are four main tariqas: Qadiri, Naqshbandi, Chishti, and Suhrawardi.
The leader of Qadiri tariqa is Sheikh Mohammed Kasnazani. He lives in Jordan but regularly travels to the Kurdistan Region’s cities.