Eid al-Fitr’s creamy delight: Geymar in Baghdad
Shafaq News/ On the second day ofEid al-Fitr, Baghdad stirred before sunrise—not from noise, but in quietanticipation of a tradition that runs deep in the city’s soul. Acrossneighborhoods, families rose early to share a simple, cherished ritual: geymar.The thick, creamy delight made from buffalo or cow’s milk isn’t justbreakfast—it’s a taste of home and identity, passed down like an heirloom.
Al-Mulhani Market: A Legacy ofAuthenticity
In the historic Al-Kadhimiyadistrict, Al-Mulhani Market came alive before dawn. Known as Baghdad’s mosttrusted source for authentic geymar, the market has held this reputation sincethe 1920s. Each Eid, its narrow alleys and familiar stalls become a magnet forthose unwilling to compromise on taste or tradition.
“I could find geymar closer to home,but it wouldn't be the same,” said Saeed Abdul Rahim, 40, who traveled fromAl-Bayaa. For his family, it’s more than food—it’s a generational tradition.
“Eid morning doesn’t feel the samewithout it,” Abdul Rahim told Shafaq News.
Meeting Demand with Time-HonoredMethods
Behind the counters, vendors likeUmm Kazem work tirelessly to meet the surge in demand. At 60, she still travelsfrom Fudhailiya before sunrise, doubling her usual supply. “This is puregeymar—no starch, no chemicals. Just milk and time,” she clarified to ouragency, offering trays of buffalo and cow milk geymar for 35,000 dinars (about$27) per kilo.
A few steps away, Umm Hussein fillsher stall with fresh yogurt, ghee, and soft cheeses. “Customers come forgeymar, but they stay for the other dairy. These are the tastes they grew upwith,” she lamented. Her booth, like many in Al-Mulhani, feels more like a homekitchen than a market stall.
Tradition That Tastes Like Home
The devotion to handmade geymar isn’tjust about flavor—it’s about connection. “You can taste the difference,” TahaAl-Khazali, 45, from Al-Jadriya, told our agency. “It’s dense, rich—noshortcuts. It’s part of who we are.”
For many, the ritual is a threadtying past to present. “These customs ground us, especially as life becomesmore uncertain,” he added.
Al-Sadria Market: Another Pillar ofthe Tradition
Across the river, Al-Sadria Marketcarries the same spirit. The legendary Rasool Abu Al-Kahi restaurant servesgolden kahi pastries smothered in honey and geymar—a dish that blendsindulgence with memory.
In a city shaped by change andchallenge, some things endure. Geymar is one of them. For Baghdadis, it’s morethan holiday food—it’s a link to childhood, to family, to moments that neverfade. No matter how the world shifts, some mornings still begin with cream,warmth, and the comfort of tradition.
