Saint Jacob’s Church: A ruined landmark echoing Baghdad’s legacy of coexistence and hope
Shafaq News/ Behind a rusty, weathered door lies a poignant scene:charred walls and the remnants of once-grand furnishings that served thevibrant Christian community in their prayers and Masses. This is the reality ofSaint Jacob’s Church, a historic landmark in the Asia neighborhood (Hayy Asia)of the Dora area, southern Baghdad.
The church, now a shadow of its former self, remains alive in thememories of Muslims who live nearby. With the Christian families who oncepopulated the area having largely migrated, Muslim residents nostalgicallyrecall a time when coexistence flourished.
The church was a shared space for celebrations and community gatherings,reflecting a deep bond between neighbors. Today, candles are lit within itsruins, a heartfelt gesture symbolizing hope and unity.
Among those keeping the church’s legacy alive is Nahla Iyad, a30-year-old Muslim resident who passes by Saint Jacob’s Church daily. She oftenstops to light a candle, turning to its silent walls for solace. “This churchis a place where prayers are answered,” she told Shafaq News. “I’ve felt peacehere many times.” She reminisced about the days when the church was alive withhymns and prayers, a place where Christian and Muslim families shared an atmosphereof love and harmony.
A Historic Landmark Turned to Ruin
Saint Jacob’s Church was established in 1965 as a place not only forworship but also for education. Initially associated with a seminary fortheological studies and Christian education, the seminary later became therenowned “Al-Ajyal School.”
The church began to deteriorate after 2003, as the security situation inBaghdad forced most Christian families to leave. In 2007, the church suffered adevastating blow when a bombing by Al-Qaeda destroyed much of its structure andcontents. Its library, once filled with rare manuscripts and valuable texts,was looted, leaving the halls empty and desolate.
Today, the exterior walls of Saint Jacob’s Church remain as a silenttestament to its storied history. Inside, the ruins echo with memories of avibrant past. The statue of the Virgin Mary, once a centerpiece of devotion, isconspicuously absent, symbolizing the void left behind.
A Symbol of Coexistence
Despite its state of disrepair, Saint Jacob’s Church remains a site ofreverence and reflection for both Muslim and Christian families. On specialoccasions, such as New Year’s celebrations, they visit the ruins to lightcandles.
One such visitor is Ibtihal Al-Saadi, a 57-year-old Muslim woman whocherishes memories of shared prayers and celebrations with her Christianneighbors before they depart from Baghdad.
“The church used to bring us together with love and peace,” Ibtihal toldShafaq News, her voice heavy with sorrow. “Today, it stands as a witness topainful times.”
Dora’s Christian Heritage Fades
Once a prominent place for Christian life, the Dora area was home tonumerous churches serving various denominations, including the Chaldeans andthe Ancient Church of the East. However, the community has faced severechallenges over the years. In March 2023, the Catholic Monks Monastery, ahistorical site dating back to the 1960s and one of Dora’s largest Christianlandmarks, was demolished, marking another blow to the area’s rich heritage.
This decline is not limited to Dora. Across Baghdad and other provincesin central and southern Iraq, historic churches are falling into neglect. Inareas like Shorja and Al-Nidal Street, some church buildings have beenpartially repurposed as storage spaces, car garages, or private institutions.Their once-bustling halls have remained closed for years.
Saint Jacob’s Church: A Community Effort
The plight of Saint Jacob’s Church is emblematic of this broaderdecline. According to its custodian, Bassam Saeed, the number of Christianfamilies in the Asia neighborhood has dwindled from 100 to fewer than 15,making reconstruction efforts unfeasible for now. “Rebuilding the church is apostponed project,” Saeed told Shafaq News, citing the lack of resources anddeclining Christian presence in the area.
Despite the challenges, symbolic efforts by both Muslims and Christiansaim to breathe life into the church’s legacy. Volunteers occasionally clean thesite and organize modest activities to preserve its sanctity.
A Shrinking Christian Population
The story of Saint Jacob’s Church reflects the broader struggles ofIraq’s Christian community. Louis Marqous, Vice President of the HammurabiHuman Rights Organization (HHRO), highlighted the sharp decline in Baghdad’sChristian population, which has fallen from 400,000 in earlier decades to fewerthan 10,000 today. This significant loss has led to the closure of severaliconic churches, such as the Sacred Heart of Jesus Church in Karrada and theHoly Trinity Church in Baladiyat.
Official statistics reveal that Arab Christians make up just 2% ofIraq’s Christian population. Despite the decline, Baghdad remains home to threeGreek Orthodox churches, four Coptic Orthodox churches, and 57 Roman Catholicchurches scattered across the country. A small number of Protestant churchesalso add to the tapestry of Iraq’s religious heritage.
